A Dangerous Business

Date: 11th February 2024

Start: Lake Ohau Lodge (km 2506.1)

End: Ahuriri River (km 2531.4)

Distance Travelled: 27.9 km

Total Distance Completed: 2377.9 km

Song Currently Stuck in Head: no song today, was too caught up in my own thoughts

Temperature: too dang low

Melly snuck into our room last night as it was ridiculously cold, at least from a Queenslander’s standpoint. Rising at 7, the temperature gauge read 1 degree Celsius. 1. Degree. Inside the room it was lovely and warm (thank you insulation), but our room was a 100 m walk from the main lodge where breakfast is served. So, we layered up and waddled over for the final decent brekkie we’d have until reaching Lake Hawea.

Despite the long distance we were hoping to cover today, we took our time to enjoy these final moments of comfort (and wifi) before setting off down the trail, the first bit of actual hiking since arriving in Lake Tekapo 3 days ago. The lodge is 3 km off-trail, so to get back we had to follow the A2O cycle trail for 5 km until its junction with the TA.

Of course, when we did rejoin the TA then promptly decided to follow the A2O for another 1.5 km. No complaints from me, I’d be more than happy to walk all the way to Bluff on wide, well-graded gravel paths. It didn’t last long, a classic green and gold DOC sign pointing us off the A2O for the final time and straight into a forested climb.

Having done no climbing since Stag Saddle, this track came as an annoying surprise. My mood quickly soured going up many tree roots and rocks. I can definitely feel myself getting to the stage where I’m ready for this to be over. The scenery is still lovely, but carrying this pack every single day is getting rather annoying.

Yet again I’ve packed way too much food, probably about 8 days worth for a 4 day stint. Maybe one of these days I’ll learn my lesson and not pack so much, but I am running out of days to do so. It got so bad I had to stop for 5 minutes just to give my back a break. The others went ahead and for the rest of the climb I was playing catch up. Although to be honest, I did like having a bit more space. The track wasn’t too technical so I chucked on some podcasts and plodded away at the rest of the climb.

Just after reaching the top I caught up with the gang who were taking a break. Excellent, I was just thinking it was time for lunch. Just one problem: they weren’t eating lunch. Well I’ve just got all my lunch items out so I’m gonna eat lunch now, doing so in a bit of a rush so as not to delay them too much. No matter, it just means I’ll have time at the next break to do some writing.

Setting of together, the trail from here gradually dropped down to the Ahuriri River and was another classic lightly poled Canterbury High Country route. Oli led from the front which confused me a bit as he doesn’t have a phone (it broke through the Nelson Lakes section) let alone a map of the trail. Still, it was clear he’s got tonnes of experience in outdoor navigation. Some of his routefinding choices did confuse me at first but we still got to the right place. Granted it also helps when the trail follows a stream for most of the way.

I hung around the back going at my own pace. We still had a way to go but I didn’t see the point in going crazy fast. It definitely wasn’t because I was being weighed down with too much food.

…uh, I’ve run out of things to talk about for this part of the journey. Um, Matt picked up a skink, that was pretty cool.

The skink was safely released and we got back on our way. As we got closer to the river, the track started to get boggy in places. So far in the South Island I’ve managed to do a pretty good job at avoiding mud and I wasn’t about to stop now.

This time I didn’t have a choice. There was no way around the mud. Oh well, there’s a nice clean river just ahead, in I go.

Mud over, we passed by a number of hikers already in their tents. Also known as, the people we’d be fighting for bunks at the hut tomorrow (I’m kidding, they were really nice). We’d get the crossing of the Ahuriri over and done with today with the sun still out. None of us fancied trying it in the cold morning. Lo and behold, we reached a crest in the hill and the river came into view.

Nothing comes easy on Te Araroa, not even trying to reach the banks of the Ahuriri, a steep decline being needed to get down there. The news was good, the river was nice and low so it should make for an easy crossing. We’ve just got to find the right spot. Here’s a top tip: don’t follow the big orange markers. Yes, I know, saying such a thing is akin to blasphemy. By all means go for it if you desire, just be prepared for a deep crossing. Instead, head left down the shore and cross over to a rocky island. It’s no more than knee deep and flowing very lightly.

Then simply walk up the island and cross over to the other bank. Unless of course you’re walking with two photographers and one of them breaks out his drone and has you imitate the cover of Abbey Road. It’s a good thing the water wasn’t cold.

Now to find a suitable camping spot. That took a bit longer than I’d hoped, but we soon found flat enough ground to chuck a tent on. Thoughts then turned to what might be on the menu back at the lodge as I sat about boiling water for my dehydrated meal. Oh well, in three days time I’ll be in Lake Hawea with my family who have just finished the Routeburn. Only 33 km and it took them 3 days. Amateurs, am I right? (Mum that was a joke, please feed me).