A Dangerous Business

Date: 12th January 2024

Start: Pelorus River Campsite (km 1826.6)

End: Rocks Hut (km 1858.4)

Distance Travelled: 31.8 km

Total Distance Completed: 1698.3 km

Song Currently Stuck in Head: various scenes from The Avengers, don’t ask why

Sandfly Population on the Pelorus River: hundreds at least

Why am I waking up at 5am? I hate that is the next normal for me. Believe me when I say that when I get back to Australia I won’t be waking up before 6am for at least 3 months.

Today the early start was more justified today than yesterday, with a lot of ground to cover to reach tonight’s hut. At least the first 14 km would go by quickly, just your typical rural gravel road leading to the start of the track. I kept my phone turned of to save battery so there’s no photos from this section. It started off in farmland, passing by fields of cattle before entering a pine forest that led to a “carpark” at the beginning of the Pelorus River Track.

For the majority of the rest of today’s hike we’d be on this track as it follows its namesake river upstream. It wasn’t the easiest pathway in the world, especially compared to the Queen Charlotte, but still in decent shape. Some of the stream crossings had even been bridged. Just the ones flowing rapidly with sheer cliffs on either side.

45 minutes in I caught up with the rest of the gang at a spot called Emerald Pool. All it was was a part of the Pelorus that appeared bright green. Being the hot day that it was, I decided to join the others in having a swim in the river.

The other benefit to swimming in the river is you were immune to the multitude of sandfiles seeking after your flesh. Sadly, the river was rather chilly so at some point you had to get out and face the music. I must’ve created a graveyard of dozens of them whilst drying my feet off but they just kept coming. With that said, I haven’t seen any bite marks on me yet so maybe I got away with it.

Anyway, swim over and packs donned, we set off again further into the forest. I got the impression that the track used to run closer to the river many year ago but had to be rerouted after a slip, because as soon as we left Emerald Pool we had to tackle a fairly steep climb up and away from the river. Once up there, the track climbed and dropped as it pleased, sapping our strength away as the sun beat down on us. We could hear the cool, refreshing waters of the Pelorus below us, seemingly just out of reach. The multitude of “stream” crossings promised to us were also falsely advertised. Many were barely a trickle, some even bone dry. I was expecting wet feet today so you can imagine my disappointment. Ok that’s a lie, I was relieved at being able to keep my feet dry although I was hoping for another swim. I haven’t felt this sort of heat since I left Brisbane.

Thankfully that wished would be granted when we descended back to the river and arrived at the first hut on the trail.

I believe most of the huts in the Richmond’s were originally built by the NZ Forestry Service, the predecessor to DOC, primarily to service their staff working in the park and hunters. Captain Creek has 6 bunks arranged in an L shape on the left wall, a wood stove, and a bench for cooking. I suspect many of the other huts I’ll come across will be of a similar design. To us, the only important thing about this hut that we cared about was its close proximity to the Pelorus River. After another quick dip and sandfly massacre, we had lunch up by the hut where the sandfly population was smaller. Although I had packed 12 days worth of dinners, I didn’t have as much for lunches. Might need to get a bit creative with them in the coming days.

The next stint to Middy Creek Hut promised to be on the easier side, although not without first crossing another chicken wire swingbridge.

The heat was at its worst during this time and everyone was struggling with it. Despite this we kept a good pace and arrived at the hut by mid-afternoon.

As expected, the hut’s interior was identical to Captain Creek. Our break here wasn’t as long, we were still aiming for Rocks Hut which required a 660 m climb up from here. We got some much needed tips and advice from a local hiker staying at this hut and then begun our climb.

Yep, it was hard work. I reckon my pack must’ve been nearing 20 kg with all the food inside it. I spent the whole climb with Matt and Jamie, Melly having gone ahead because, in her words, she was slow and we’d catch up with her. Sure, but it’s not like we were much faster. If I was alone perhaps I could’ve, but I wanted to stick with the guys and I was perfectly happy to go a bit slower. Doing so also meant I was more observant of the activity within the forest, including some very curious birds.

Towards the top, Jamie stopped after developing a cramp in his hamstring. Matt and I carried on, but I made a mental note to come back for him if he didn’t arrive at the hut by a certain time. As is the pattern with most huts, no matter how far we walked it never seemed to get any closer until it looms out of the trees right in front of our faces.

Melly was already there and was talking with a Swiss guy by the name of Oli. Somehow he’d overtaken us on trail without us knowing, presumably during our swim at Emerald Pool. Jamie was thankfully not far behind us. Unlike the two huts we visited today, Rocks Hut is a big boy. 16 bunks, loads of room to spread out in, it even has filtered water and flushing toilets! That sort of luxury is almost always reserved for Great Walks huts. No complaints from me, however, plus there wasn’t any concerns about missing out on a bunk.

Thus marks the end of a huge first day in the Richmond Ranges. What worries me is that tomorrow is also going to be just as big. The weather forecast is showing some rain coming through on Sunday evening and Melly was hoping to get over Mt Rintoul before it hits. That means we’d have to get up to Slaty Hut tomorrow to be in the best position to get over the mountain in time. That’s 25 km of walking and over 1800 m of climbing. Did I mention it’s likely going to hit 30 degrees tomorrow too? Needless to say, I wasn’t sure I’d make it all the way. I wasn’t worried about food, so I was thinking about only going as far as Starveall Hut and then doing a short day to Slaty the next day, ready for the good weather to return on Monday. As with these plans, I’m playing it by ear, learning to be flexible. If I’m feeling good I’ll go all the way, but if not that’s ok too. In the meantime, I was ready to enjoy a lovely sleep in the hut, getting to bed nice and early, resting my body for the demands of tomorrow.