A Dangerous Business

Date: 18th November 2023

Start: Camp Waipu Cove (km 420.7)

End: Mangawhai Travellers Rest (km 449)

Distance Travelled: 28.3 km

Total Distance Completed: 449.3 km

Song Currently Stuck in Head: the sound of wind rustling through my rainjacket’s hood

Fatigue: yes

It had to happen sooner or later. Having too much good weather in New Zealand is an anomaly, eventually it has to start raining. Today was that day, the clouds being merciful enough to allow a dry pack up before starting to release their contents slowly over the course of the day.

In all honesty, I should’ve started sooner. When I looked at the map on Far Out it didntlppk am that difficult, with most of the day on gravel roads which I thought wouldn’t take too much time. Early on it seemed like that would be the case, making quick progress up the hill (and past the dog who didn’t make a showing today) that I, er, trialled yesterday.

It transitioned to gravel as I climbed as the weather settled into a steady rhythm of very light rain that had me constantly putting on and taking off my rainjacket’s hood. When I hit the Langsview Track I slowed down significantly as I got hit with slippery, muddy slopes. This wasn’t in the script which for me can be a big deal. In Puketi Forest, I knew the track was going to be difficult but I wasn’t mentally prepared for just how difficult it would be. On Bream Head it was the opposite, knowing it would be a tough climb before leaving camp. The difference? I enjoyed Bream Head and hated Puketi Forest (I’m coming to terms with it). I thought this track would be easy going and easily completed. The sign starting it’d take me 3 hours to do 6.5 km suggested otherwise, as did my initial experience of it. I tried my best not to spiral and put my focus into putting one foot in front of the other, pausing regularly to regain some strength and appreciate the forest I was in.

The local landowner in these parts has put a lot of work into helping conserve the bush on their property whilst also helping out TA walkers, providing them with a shelter and water tank at km 430. This must’ve been the camping spot Tom and Jamie went to last night, today it would be where Matt and I would have lunch. We had to use our imagination to see the views that would be visible from here as we were in the middle of the clouds.

We were soon descending off the ridge on a gravel driveway, providing more grip than mud (I know, that’s a pretty low bar to set) but still demanding a slow pace; no need to take any unwarranted risks this early on. I reached the main road in an out of Mangawhai around 1pm, checked to see how far I had to go… 15 km. I was only halfway. That was quite demoralising. The combination of rain, pain, and just general fatigue was getting to me in a big way. The temptation was there to try and hitch a ride on this road all the way into town. But I resolved to stick to the track as it’s shown on the map, both for reasons of integrity and the promise of a coastal clifftop walkway.

So I pressed on, traversing yet more gravel roads past pastures and farms…

…then passing through pastures, saying g’day to some very chill cows, walking over some obnoxiously green hills.

A small climb through the forest you see in the above picture led me to the coast and a lovely well-built pathway, with plenty of day walkers to judge my decision to carry a stupid amount of weight on my back for 4 months straight.

The rain was still coming down aggressively lightly, carried into my face by a fresh breeze. I was also beginning to tire in a big way. I had already done over 20 km by this point, still leaving me with potentially another 2 hours of walking. I had to stop for 10 minutes to give my feet a break. It’s frustrating because I’m not getting any closer to my final destination even though it’s better for me in the long run. I felt a little better after some snacks, but still pretty exhausted, going a long way to justify my decision to rest in Mangawhai. I still had to get there, so off the cliffs I came and onto a beach, albeit briefly.

Marvelling at how people could be swimming in this weather, I hopped up onto the street and made my way – slowly – down into Mangawhai, first having to get through Mangawhai Heads. After another stop I caught up with Melly, walking together for a bit before she peeled off to New World for groceries. I continued for another 2 km, finally reaching Mangawhai Travellers Rest. Don’t get it confused with being a hostel, this is a house owned by Alan, a local musician who opens his doors to hikers to stay in. When we all arrived (me, Melly, Jazz Hands, and Lupi) he was actually down at a gig in Auckland and would be back until later that night, leaving us with some instructions on how to get inside. It’s quite an old cottage, but felt very cosy.

Before the weather got worse, I went across the road and ordered a sensational pizza. Ok, it wasn’t the greatest pizza in the world, but it was exactly what I was craving, so in my mind it’s perfect. By 9pm there was still no sign of Alan as he’d left his guitar at the venue. I was completely knackered, so I crashed onto a futon and went to sleep listening to the wind of the approaching storm.